Cross the Strait of Gibraltar from Spain and visitors are confronted by the hustle and bustle of Tangier, where the noisy street life overwhelms many first time visitors to Morocco. Hop straight on a bus to Chefchaouen for a laid-back vibe and a peaceful introduction to this fascinating country.
Arriving in Morocco
Ferries from Spain are fast and frequent and an easy way to travel between the two continents. Tarifa, a relaxed kite-surfing resort, offers a high-speed catamaran direct to the old town of Tangier. The 35-minute journey is certainly speedy, but inclement weather often stops ferries for days. A 45-minute bus journey to Algeciras offers a second option if seas are too rough for the 'fast ferries' - a laborious two-hour large vehicle ferry, which runs a few times a day. Head for the Estacion Maritimo, where several operators sell on-the-spot tickets for the next sailing, or buy online. Foot passengers pay around 30 euros (a few euros more for the catamaran).
Passports are shown on leaving Spain - non-EU citizens get a stamp; and again on the boat to a Moroccan official. Make sure an entry stamp and visa number are clear to see in the passport, as this number is required when checking in to hotels. Exiting the ferry is a painless procedure, and if arriving in Tangier-Med on the slow boat from Algeciras, a free bus takes passengers to the CTM bus station next to the Port Gate in Tangier town (45 kilometres).
Buses from Tangier to Chefchaouen
The CTM bus is generally considered the best transportation in Morocco, running to schedule and with comfortable, air conditioned coaches. The ferry terminal is located right next to the CTM station, a small office with departures at 8am, 10am and 8pm direct to Chefchaouen. There are also departures throughout the day from the new central bus station, a five-minute taxi ride away. Flag down a turquoise petit-taxi (they are all metered) and ask for the Gare du Routiere. The journey costs around 6 dirhams. Once inside the central station, touts will appear asking for your destination and will sell tickets for the next departure. Tickets are 30 dirhams to Chefchaouen. The bus station is a pleasant place to wait if the next departure is a while off; a good cafe is also available, with waiters in smart white shirts and black waistcoats offering table service.
Arrival in Chefchaouen
Buses usually stop on the approach road, as the bus station is a little way downtown. Blue petit-taxis await bus arrivals and will drop visitors at the Medina entrance or the top part of town for 15-20 dirhams. To walk into town takes around 20 minutes.
There is a cluster of good hotels inside the Medina, and a few around the south entrance. Chefchaouen is a small town and it's easy to get your bearings. Take a walk above the Medina towards the Atlas Hotel for an excellent lookout down into town. Once inside the Medina it's best just to wander at will; heading downwards or upwards will always lead to an exit. Follow the wider paths, avoiding steps, and an arched exit in the sandy-brown perimeter wall (a marked contrast to the varying shades of blue everywhere else) will appear.
Chefchaouen offers the perfect first stop in Morocco. A bright, breezy mountain town, it is small enough to feel welcoming and easy to navigate, yet has enough of the traditional Moroccan spirit and atmosphere to give a good introduction to this wonderful country.
Victoria Hands - I'm lucky enough to travel for a few months each year, and mainly write about my experiences as a backpacker. I have been writing for ...
